Learning in Lebanon

Beirut a culture capital

2009-11-12T02:12:00.000-08:00

The article reproduced below is taken from the AUB corporate web page
(see: http://www.aub.edu.lb/news/archive/preview.php?id=100422).
Author: Henry Matthews, Editor, Office of Communications, AUB.

I attended this presentation last week. Though a general survey, Mr Salam made some valid points about the historical and contemporary role of Beirut in integrating cultures of the region with those of the West. One point he made that deserves further consideration, is that cultural diversity or 'freedom', far from destabilising, actually enhanced Beirut's ability to adapt to the enormous challenges faced by Lebanon, especially over the last thirty years. The claim is not without merit, though I suspect that there remains a significant gap between what the local intelligentsia may believe about the virtues of cultural diversity and the tribal realities on the ground. Educational strategists may be interested in his identification of some of the vocational areas that Lebanon needs to develop.

The speech was given on the ninetieth anniversary of the AUB Women's League - an impressive group of women graduates, many of whom have gone on to exercise leadership and influence in Lebanon. They kindly welcomed me to their meeting, and I must add that they really know how to put on a good 'spread'.

Salam: Beirut will continue being the capital of cultural freedom

AUB President Peter Dorman and Minister Salam

Beirut became the Arab world's hospital, university, and publishing house because its freedom attracted Arab petrodollars and politicians, and Beirut is The New York Times' number one clubbing city in the world.

These facts were highlighted by then-Minister of Culture Tammam Salam in his lecture, "Beirut's Cultural Role in the Middle East," delivered at the monthly meeting of the Women's League on November 2.

At the beginning of the meeting, Lebanese flags and the league's newsletter were distributed and the National Anthem and the Alma Mater were sung. Then League President Leila Ghantous, welcomed Salam and AUB President Peter Dorman, pointing out that the league, established on November 3, 1919, was 90 years old.

Women's League members cutting the cake celebrating the League's 90th anniversary

Salam said that Beirut's cultural role grew in importance in the late 19th century because of its inhabitants' courage and stamina, and because of the city's importance as an economic center. He said the city acquired its prominence in the early 20th century because AUB and other foreign universities brought an atmosphere of freedom and the meeting of east with west. "Cultural freedom," he said, "is one of Beirut's major assets. We have managed to survive situations that could have crumbled bigger nations." He added: "If you are bitten by the Beirut bug, it will obsess you forever."

Beirut's role, said Salam, involved distinguished individuals. Lebanese working abroad carry with them a special "cachet" and are looked at differently, so, many companies seek to employ AUB alumni because they belong to a culture of freedom and the spirit of their Alma Mater. They affect change wherever they go, influenced by the culture of the University and of Beirut.

Salam expects Beirut to continue to play an influential role in the future with development in all fields. He said that naming Beirut as World Book Capital in 2009 was an acknowledgment of its cultural role in the book industry, covering authors, printing, and publishing and this makes all the Lebanese responsible for continuing Beirut's cultural role, adding that reading must be increased and be made a national priority, starting with the country's children. He said Beirut should also step up the sophistication in its hospitalization services and its business and banking sectors.

Salam expressed confidence in the future of the city: "I am sure Beirut will continue being the capital of cultural freedom and the place where people enjoy the differences and live the culture of accepting the other.

Three days in Libya

2009-11-04T05:39:00.000-08:00

Libya does not figure prominently in Australian consciousness. The older generation may hearken back to a time when in the Libyan desert, Aussie Diggers fought with the Allies against the Italians and Germans for control of North Africa. However, more recent perceptions will tend to be shaped by Libya being often in the news it for what may be called the ‘wrong reasons’. However, as I discovered last week, in company with colleagues from Australian universities, Libya is a beautiful and interesting place, with enormous social and economic potential.

We were part of the ‘Study in Australia’ Education Exhibition, a two day road show for about fourteen Australian universities, which was held at El Fatah University, Tripoli, from 28–29 October. The exhibition consisted mainly of information booths manned by international and marketing staff from the universities. In addition, Victorian and South Australian State Government representatives were in attendance – SA being stylishly represented by Jane Osborn, currently based in Dubai. Indeed, SA was particularly well represented, with UniSA, Flinders University and the SA Government together demonstrating that Adelaide is consolidating its position as a major centre of Australian higher education.

The response was a sight to behold. Hundreds of students made serious enquiries, and many made preliminary applications, especially for Masters and PhD programs. Libya has 360,000 higher education students (impressive, given that the population is about six million), and the system is well-funded, with a large number of government scholarships available for overseas study.

Having helped out a little on the UniSA stall, I can attest to the hard work and dedication of the staff who undertake these overseas representations: for UniSA in this instance by Ms Megan Durant, Deputy Director, International. The display was full-on from morning till late afternoon, plus evening functions – demanding enough, but this was only one stage in a series of exhibitions that followed on from Kuwait, and that would go on to Jordan, Syria and Turkey.

In addition to the exhibition, this part of the road show made a point of including an academic delegation – which is why I was there. Led by Stephen Garrett, Consul Education, Australian Education International, a series of meetings and consultations were arranged for the Australian academics. All this, as the whole road show, was very capably and efficiently facilitated by Mr Tom Yates, Australian Consul-General, Libya, and Senior trade Commissioner for North Africa. To see Tom at work was to appreciate the terrific role our representatives undertake overseas, and I don’t mind saying that it made me proud to be an Australian. Tom and Stephen helped to maximise productive contacts, and also kept a friendly eye on us, while making sure that we had a bit of fun as well. The fun bit included a trip on 30 October to the magnificent site of Lepcis (or ‘Leptis’) Magna – of which more in a future posting.

One important consultation for the academic team was with the National Economic Development Board, the central planning authority for Libya. They came across as an accomplished group determined to achieve real progress in the social and economic development of the nation. I also attended a meeting with the Engineering Faculty of El Fatah University, which also included deans from other Tripoli universities. At both meetings it was clear that there are many opportunities for Australian education providers, particularly in vocational and professional training, if the providers are prepared to commit to meaningful partnerships with their Libyan counterparts. On the evening of the 28 October, the Consul-General hosted a dinner at the Al-Mahari Radisson Blu Hotel, providing a further opportunity for the Australian academics to meet with key Libyan university officials. On the evening of 29 October, we enjoyed a lavish Libyan barbeque, hosted by Aconex, Libya.

Of Libya itself, three days doesn’t qualify me to say much. However, I can say that my impression overall was much more favourable that I might have anticipated. In many respects, Libya shares the attributes of Arab countries, yet there are some subtle and interesting differences. Tripoli has something of an ‘Egyptian’ feel to it, but unlike its Egyptian counterparts, it is well-maintained with clean, litter-free streets. The same standards obtain in the countryside, which (in the part I saw) is reminiscent of the coastal rural areas in Syria, dotted with neat concrete-brick farmhouses, and walled groves of olive and fruit trees. There are many things to admire, but especially it is to be noted that Libyans make fantastic cappuccino – presumably a positive legacy of the Italian colonial days.

City traffic is chaotic – a ubiquitous feature of the region – and fast: on the way from the airport to the hotel my driver, evidently a disciple of the chariot school of Jehu, managed to get the Hyundai up to 160kms/hr, graciously sparing a moment to turn around and through a flashing smile say, ‘I am a good driver, yes?’ On the other hand, Libyan taxi drivers must rate among the most innocuous of their species anywhere in the world. Unlike Beirut, for instance, where the pedestrian, and especially the walking westerner, is taken as an affront to the raison d’être of the cab trade, and will attract endless honks and other acts of solicitation, not once when walking in Tripoli did I merit even a tenuous beep. Even more surprisingly, the merchants of the souk shared this quietist spirit. When passing through the shops and stalls no-one approached me with their wares or offered the bargain of a lifetime – something quite inconceivable in any other Arab market place that I know.

I am glad that I went to Libya – glad because seeds have been sown that, with careful nurturing, may be productive to the benefit of Australian and Libyan higher education; glad because I had the privilege of seeing a little more of this amazing world, not least Lepcis Magna; and glad for the opportunity of meeting some wonderful people. Needless to say, if one were called on to go again…

Part of the Australian Delegation at Lepcis Magna

Mall-based learning

2009-10-21T04:36:00.000-07:00

There were two sensations when EK433 touched down last Tuesday at Dubai. The first was that of relief. Over the years I've learned to tolerate flying, but it is an experience to be enjoyed inestimably more in the passing than in the performance. The second was that small thrill I feel each time I return to the Middle East.
That sensation was heightened by the anticipation that attaches to being somewhere new. Although I had been to the UAE before, I had not visited Dubai previously. As I think about it, that does appear odd. Dubai is well known to many Australians as a port of call, and it has developed as a major hub for people heading in all directions across the region. But for reasons best known to my travel agents, I always by-passed it when heading out this way. Hence I was happy for the opportunity afforded by a scheduled appointment to have a couple of days to look around.

How does one describe Dubai? Adjectives and similes must be multiplied. In some respects it feels like an arid version of Hong Kong. The skyline is said to resemble that of Chicago. Buildings and construction works abound. Who fills all these places? Can anything possibly be left over for Doha’s similar foray into futurism? There are some impressive and stylish works of architecture, but more generally in the extensive up-market, conspicuously consumerist and ostentatious parts of the city, it is as if Doctor Moreau has manipulated a monster hybrid by blending the gene pool of Disneyland with that of the Arabian Nights. Still it remains that in quieter parts and in the back streets, an array of unmistakable sights, smells and sounds reassure one that, whatever else Dubai may be, or imagine itself to be, it is an authentic Arab town. Alas, the germ from which all this has sprouted is to be seen only in sepia images on the walls of the municipal museum. However in Dubai, the Emirate Arab identity has not been lost with the long vanished fishing village, but rather has been transformed (at least on the surface) by a breathtaking experiment with the contemporary.

Some will argue that Dubai is more a global than regional phenomenon. In particular, they will point out that a great deal, if not nearly all, the sweat, ingenuity and sheer hard work of constructing, energising and sustaining this desert metropolis has been provided by imported cheap labour, particularly from the Indian subcontinent, and stimulated by the intellectual capital of the West. That hardly can be denied. But the fact that Dubai has imported the labour, skills and know-how required to make its transformation, does not make that transformation any less impressive. Neither should that consideration mitigate the profound local contribution—be it the impressive vision that drives this city, the money that has made such a transformation possible, and above all the aspirations which Dubai attempts to address.

Given these considerations, it seemed to me that Dubai may have something to say about the impact of higher education on Arab societies. I did not have the opportunity to visit any of the universities in Dubai, so I will not comment on how those institutions may (or may not) consider their role in terms of Arab perspectives on scholarship or on impacting the socio-economic, cultural and intellectual development of the Arab States. However, I did have the opportunity to discover something of interest in a shopping mall.

Dubai is famous for its gargantuan and over-the-top shopping malls, and having a perennial fascination with the kitsch, seeing at least one of these edifices was at the top of my ‘to do’ list. A colleague at AEI shrewdly suggested that I should visit the Ibn Battuta Mall, quite some distance from the city centre. Thus twenty minutes later and three times as many UAE Dirhams lighter, I arrived at what from the outside had all the appeal of a suburban Westfield shopping centre. However, one thing stood out immediately—it was big, really big—being in fact the largest themed shopping centre in the world.

Inside was a treasure trove. Here, I’m not referring to the 257 stores and 50 eateries that ply their trade, but rather to the wonderfully crafted and colourful interior that traces the travels of the medieval Moroccan explorer, Ibn Battuta.

Abu Abdullah Muhammad Ibn Battuta, was born at Tangier, Morocco, in 1304 (A.H. 703). At the tender age of twenty-one, he set out in 1325 on the Hajj (pilgrimage to Mecca), thereby embarking on a series of journeys that lasted for about thirty years. Ibn Battuta is the only medieval traveler known to have visited the lands of every Muslim ruler of his time. Critical scholarship has disputed the extent of his journeys, but he travelled also to Sri Lanka, China, Byzantium, perhaps southern Russia, and to African kingdoms, including Mali. It has been estimated that his journeys amounted to at least 75,000 miles. Eventually he returned to Fez, Morocco, where he became a judge. He recounted his adventures to the scholar Ibn Juzayy, who combined them in an extensive travelogue, completed in 1355, and popularly known as the Rihla or ‘Travels’ of Ibn Battuta. This remarkable adventurer died at Fez in 1369 (note 1).

Now, six centuries later, Ibn Battuta is celebrated by a shopping mall: and why not? Malls are where people meet and gather, just as in the souks and marketplaces. Ibn Battuta himself made many of his contacts and gained knowledge of the peoples and cultures he visited in such places. Stepping into the themed mall, the shopper is surrounded by reminders of medieval Arab and Islamic achievement. The mall is themed so that the shopper passes through in succession a series of large courts that reflect through architecture and clever displays each of the main regions that Ibn Battuta explored – starting at Andalusia, then Tunisia, Egypt, Persia, India, and finally China.

As well as highlighting events in Ibn Battuta’s journeys, the displays also feature a variety of scientific and intellectual achievements, such as the mechanical devices created by the twelfth-century engineer, Al Jazari.

It is not perfect. As my AUB colleague, Dr Saouma BouJaoude, himself a science educator, pointed out to me, it is an idealised presentation, designed more to impress than to accurately convey the complicated development of such achievements.

Further, it is apparent that the Mall seeks ideologically to reinforce specifically Islamic values, and it does so by focusing on one particular period. That may be necessary for the theme, but what the Mall seeks to capture will run the risk of distortion if it is forgotten that Arab achievement is a continuum - each era to the present has its own story to tell of intellectual and cultural gains; and that includes the centuries prior to the advent of Islam (note 2). Moreover, the Mall is a commercial venture. It would be naïve to imagine that the ambience created by the exotic theme is not designed to reinforce the psychology of consumerism – the adventure of shopping.

Yet, notwithstanding these considerations, I am impressed by the circumstance that here is an attempt to represent Arab erudition in a way that conveys something of the richness of the tradition while, at the same time, making a statement about the relevance of that tradition today.

At present, much thought is being given to the nature and shape of teaching spaces. The Ibn Battuta Mall has something to teach regarding the imaginative use of public spaces to foster lifelong learning. This model goes beyond the familiar examples of occasional booths and static displays, to integrating a body of knowledge into the fabric of a public space – a space that is designed to engage not the 'interested few' but the populace in general. It is almost education by stealth: I come to get shoes, I leave knowing something about a topic that I had not considered and that otherwise might have passed me by. Perhaps, as part of the obligation of universities to apply knowledge socially, thought should to be given to mall-based learning in Australia. For a start, efforts to educate Australians generally about Indigenous Australians, their achievements and their perspectives, might be served well by forging partnerships with our mall entrepreneurs. And, if nothing else, there at least may be a few bargains.

(1) For a general and lavishly illustrated summary of Ibn Battuta’s achievements, see Douglas Bullis, ‘The Longest Hajj: The Journeys of Ibn Battuta’, Saudi Aramco World 51 (2000), online at: http://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/200004/the.longest.hajj.the.journeys.of.ibn.battuta-editor.s.note.htm

(2) Compare Samir Kassir, Being Arab. Tr. Will Hobson. London & New York: Versio, 2006, esp. pp. 31 -52.